What to see and do in Isabela

Are you looking for ideas of things to see and do in Isabela? In this post we are going to talk to you in detail about the largest island of Galapagos. We were a hair's breadth away from not going, but finally we were able to carve out some time and included it in our Galapagos Islands itinerary (we would have regretted it a lot!). It was only a couple of days, really few, I wish I had had 4, but even so we made good use of it, you'll see lol.

Ready to start organizing your trip to Isabela Island?

What to see and do in Isabela (Galapagos)

From the Tunnels to the Sierra Negra Volcano, Isabela is the Galapagos Island with the most variety of landscapes and natural spaces, not counting all the animals, of course.

Puerto Villamil is the main town, much smaller and less developed than Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo (by telling you that it doesn't have paved roads you can get an idea), but with a quite pleasant atmosphere and some interesting accommodation and restaurant options.

And good news for backpackers: there are plenty of free things to do in Isabela, so if you don't want to or can't, your budget won't end up bleeding :-p

Entry Fee:

We've told you the good, but now comes the bad: to enter the island you have to pay a fee of $10 (apart from the $100 entry fee to the archipelago). Definitely, in the Galapagos you don't come to save money XD.

Now yes, we are going to tell you the top 10 plans to see and do in Isabela.

1. Tunnels Tour

This tour was the reason why we ended up in Isabela: Claudia and Jairo only had to say “one of the best snorkels of the trip” and we changed our plans (we are that easy to convince).

Its name is due to the marine tunnels and rock formations created by lava in volcanic eruptions. In addition to the spectacular setting, things looked good underwater: swimming among turtles, blue sharks (harmless little sharks), sea lions, seahorses and colorful fish, under the watchful eye of iguanas and blue-footed boobies, was what He expected us (at first), but…

The thing went wrong. Unfortunately, the state of the sea did not allow us to reach the area of the tunnels. After a good time on the high seas waiting to catch the good wave, the captain decided to give up and they took us to the second snorkeling point of the day, much quieter. Obviously, it was NOT the same, but folks, the Galapagos are a fucking paradise: it was a "bad" day and we still saw countless turtles, a few mantas and a few white tip sharks.

2. Pearl Shell

It is a small bay located next to the port where you can swim among animals for free. After haggling over a bunch of marine iguanas and walking along a wooden walkway that crosses an area of mangroves, you'll come to a wooden platform from which you can jump into the water of this natural pool.

It is a very quiet area to swim without frights, but keep in mind that it is better to approach here at high tide (this is when there is more visibility and animals). If you are lucky, you will be able to share a swim with little crabs, sea lions, marine iguanas and even penguins. And obviously, don't forget the snorkeling mask!

3. Tour to Las Tintoreras islet

It is another of the most popular excursions in Isabela to swim with a large number of animals. And also one of the most affordable. They are some islets located in front of Puerto Villamil, apparently less spectacular than the Túneles formations, but with many possibilities of seeing sharks, manta rays and even penguins.

Being close, the tours are for half a day (estimate about $55) and you can also get there by renting a kayak.

As we had just enough time, we decided to book the excursion to Los Túneles, and going back perhaps we would have also signed up for this one.

4. Pool of the flamingos

We have already verified that the Galapagos Islands are famous for their marine animals, but also for the large number of bird species that inhabit their entire territory. And one that we needed to see was flamenco. In Isabela the drought ended.

Next to our accommodation, the Villamil hostel, there are some wetlands where it is very easy to spot these wonderful pink birds. Better to go early in the morning: we went at noon and only saw 2. Better than nothing, right?

5. Bike route to the Wall of Tears

One of the best things to do in Isabela and a somewhat different plan will be to rent a bike ($10 full day/$6 half day) and ride the trail that leads to the so-called "Wall of Tears", a stone construction up to 25 meters high.

What is the origin of such a strange building? Between 1946 and 1959 there was a penal colony in this area of the island (in the same place where a United States naval base was previously located) and the construction of "the wall" was part of a series of punishments and forced labor that prisoners had to perform, many times to death.

The route is about 5 kilometers long and you will find marine iguana crossings (with their corresponding signs), giant tortoises, and several interesting points, such as Playa del Amor (where there is an iguana farm), the Estero Tunnel, wetland areas and mangroves…

And two viewpoints, the Mirador del Cerro Orchilla and the one at the end of the route, right next to the Wall of Tears, where you can enjoy views of the island.

It is best to do it by bicycle, although there are some stretches of sand where it becomes difficult to pedal (especially at the beginning) and the final ascent is rough. I saw people doing it on foot, but because of the distance I would not recommend it (if you go by taxi, you can save the first 2 km until you reach the checkpoint).

6. Trekking to the Sierra Negra Volcano

Although if we talk about alternative plans and amazing experiences to live in Isabela, one will undoubtedly be doing this 16 km (i/v) trek through the Sierra Negra Volcano.

When we started reading about this place we freaked out: its caldera is among the largest in the world and the last eruption is very recent… June 2018, during which hundreds of people were evicted from Isabela, watch out for him!

To be able to do this trek you must necessarily go with a guide and, as is obvious, it is preferable to be in good physical shape (although it is NOT a very hard trek). We didn't have time to do it, but it looks great.

7. Galapaguera of Isabela

Although you have already visited other centers with tortoises in the Galapagos, one never gets used to walking surrounded by these giants that can reach up to 150 years of age. In Puerto Villamil you can go to the Isabela Turtle Breeding Center, the downside is that it costs $5 to enter, plus $5 for the guide.

It is a good place to learn more about this endemic species of the Galapagos (actually there are several sub-species) and where they explain perfectly why it is necessary to continue having these breeding centers. However, if you have already been to one of these centers, such as the one in San Cristóbal (our favourite), this visit may not be necessary.

8. Nearby and free beaches

It is not necessary to pay for a tour to be able to enjoy a swim in some spectacular beach in Isabela. The ones we recommend are Playa Grande, with very fine white sand that is quite long, and with medium-sized waves ideal for beginner surfers.

And the Little Beach, which is located next to a bend, so it has calmer water and is perfect for taking a bath when returning from the Wall of Tears.

Although they are not places especially suitable for snorkeling with animals, they are perfect for relaxing in the sun or going to watch the sunset.

9. Relax in Puerto Villamil and eat a seafood barbecue

Puerto Villamil is a much more leisurely place than Puerto Ayora or Puerto Baquerizo. It extends through dirt streets around the main square, and along the boardwalk, a simple road next to the beach that does not look like those of its neighbors either.

Scattered there are some equally quiet restaurants and cafes, where you can stop for a beer, a natural juice or breakfast. Or better, a grilled seafood lady!

In the restaurant "El Velero" we ordered one for $25 that included shrimp (that's what they call lobster here), squid, prawns, octopus, fish and patacones. To drink we had a pitcher of passion fruit juice ($5) which was also addicting. The place does not have an outstanding score on Google Maps but personally we ate super well, so we recommend it without hesitation.

10. Survive the ferry

We already told this as an anecdote, but what a scary time we had on the ferry between Isabela and Santa Cruz! It took us 3 and a half hours to do the tour that normally takes 2. Giant waves, people vomiting, the boat that stopped the engine so as not to capsize, there were a couple of moments when we saw ourselves as two shipwrecked surrounded by sharks. And to top it all off, we sat in the very back seats and ended up soaked like two sea sponges.

Our advice is to take your biodramine well and make sure that the ferry you get is the big one (Stealth, for example). We had contracted that but we suppose that due to overbooking they moved us to the New Brittany. In the end they refunded us the cost of the ferry (and we went to celebrate that we are still alive with another seafood haha). Oh, now we laugh but what a bad time!

We were so traumatized that we even tried to cancel the tour to Bartolomé that we had the next day. Luckily, they didn't return our money, so as two good backpacking rats, we went there (and it was the best thing we did in Galapagos, but that's another story).

Useful information

Below we have all the practical information that you will need to plan your trip to Isabela Island on your own:

› How to get to Isabela

There are several ferry companies that make the journey between Santa Cruz and Isabela in 2-3 hours depending on the state of the sea. As we told you before, it is best to hire Stealth, which has bigger and safer boats. The price per trip is $30.

There are also internal flights from Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal, but not to the mainland.

› Where to stay in Isabela

We spent 1 night at Hostal Villamil , very close to the main square and a stone's throw from the flamingo pool. Without being a luxurious place, the truth is that we found it quite complete and comfortable, they also came to pick us up at the port.

› Where to eat in Isabela

There is not as much supply as on the other islands, and the prices seemed more expensive to us. Even so, you can eat well without leaving a kidney. In the restaurant El Velero they offer a grill of seafood and fish for 2 people for $25. The second day we had breakfast at El Dorado and for the price it was quite good, they also have a cheap daily menu.

On the part of the boardwalk we point out two: Don Sanduchito , a place with cheap sandwiches, and the Isabela Sunset Bar , something more posh to have a cocktail. Unfortunately, both were closed.

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